3 finger drag climbing accident It’s a popular grip that some climbers use for the majority of their climbing. The three finger drag feels so good, my fingers feel loose and warm. I've noticed that with a three finger drag, since the angle of the finger changes, I'm able to get much more of my finger on it and stay under the hold This post could have been written by me a few years ago. I have trouble getting into open hand position. It allows for imprecision and requires very little energy. The road back to climbing wasn't easy. wow this seems so obvious but is really helpful! i hurt my hand moving quickly above a three-finger pocket a few weeks ago - heard/felt a little crunch in the base of my ring finger, but wasn't sure what happened. Make sure to disable the "Tap twice and drag to multi-select" behaviour and all of the default 3-finger swipe behaviour via Touchpad settings in Windows preferences for the drag to work without interferences. I have started to train the three finger drag as it is a personal weakness, and I'm starting to feel a bit stronger. Three finger drag queen. Again, you’re just moving your finger joints through a range with load through them. Mono & Two-Finger Pockets Often seen as the most advanced grip position, small pockets place incredibly high loads through the pulleys and tendons of the fingers. Have you tried this? How did it work for you?Sub to follow my climbing and fit Jan 24, 2025 · 3. Each incident is analyzed by experts to show what went wrong in order to help climber avoid similar problems in the future. 3 finger drag (or open hand) is a pretty common open hand technique since the pinky is too short. Climbing open hand (3 finger drag): This is probably the second breakthrough I had with my synovitis and really helped me understand WHY I had it in the first place. 79) between relative finger strength Sep 10, 2021 · Watched some videos on finger taping and I was in action again. had some swelling in my palm/ring A1 area and pain when trying the three finger drag. Curl your fingers from half to full crimp as a concentric method of warming up the finger flexors, as well as moving those joints through range. com👍 Help us create the Largest Sep 27, 2024 · Start by picking out some crimpy climbs at the gym. I'm currently suffering from a tfcc issue and notice I have been using the three finger drag significantly more on my injured side. The young uns are much more into open hand grips. On actual hard climbing I have a habit of dropping into a three finger drag, but generally only when I'm stressed, tired or absolutely at my limit so I've come to regard it as a sign that I'm probably about to fall off. You are right that its almost impossible to 3 finger open hold most indoor tiny crimps. Search the world's information, including webpages, images, videos and more. It didn't occur to me that there was anything different about 4 fingers drag on a hold and 3 finger open and that held my recovery back for a long time. It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). Reproduced with permission of Lattice Training Ltd. I'm not a coach so can't really give you advice on what would improve your climbing performance but your 3 finger drag will definitely give you a better chance of staying injury free. If a hold is larger or incut I will almost always use 3 finger open. Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. It is useful because holds are often caught in this hand position before being reeled into a four-finger position. Nov 14, 2024 · Diet and lifestyle recommendations. I incorporated the 3 finger drag into my climbing as much as possible. "Hey dude, what's up with the fingers?" Not sure if it's the tape or the injuries, but I can't really bend them. My 3 finger drag (DIP straight/PIP flex) which doesn't seem to be the right form. Hangboarding’s transfer from off-the-wall training to on-the-wall performance is almost instantaneous, especially considering that improvements in finger strength will increase both maximum boulder and sport grade. Like a lot of people, my half crimp is stronger than my 3 finger drag. This video goes over my progression and reflections of learning the three finger drag one arm hang on the 20mm edge. I heard David McLeod saying something about 3 finger drag being nice on finger joints or something (can't quite remember now), but I decided to try it. Often, it’s used on moves where elbows can stay below the hold (as this maximises friction), or on small holds that are too slopey to crimp. With an open hand, climbers may also be unknowingly straining these tendons by over-engaging the thumb with a 3 finger drag grip, instead of allowing the thumb to relax by its side (shown right). The following worked for me. I have similar finger proportions, and when hangboarding I always try to keep all four fingers on. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. This is due to the similar length of the front three fingers. Currently taking some time off and doing light exercises (reverse wrist curls). Learn how to do this exercise: 3-Finger Drag. Focus on fundamental determinants of health so the fingers have an environment to recover. Jan 19, 2021 · The three-finger drag is efficient because it effectively relies on the tensile strength of your finger tendons. 4. Hopefully shall be seen about it promptly. I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. Rest three to five minutes before doing the next set of one-handed hangs with each hand. You could have a two-finger drag, so the 3 is usually included. I have hangboarded 3 finger drag a bit in the past, but nothing too consistent. Very good for sloper strength and not tough on the tendons either. 4,559 likes, 177 comments - latticetraining on September 11, 2024: "THE 3 FINGER DRAG The 3 finger drag is an open hand position that excludes use of the pinky. Finger rolls. Progress to three fingers then two fingers with the same motions and reps—very carefully. This will help you get your body used to using only your fingertips. Hannah Toward (9 years old at the time) relies on the 3-finger drag whilst climbing Free and Even Easier 7a+ at Malham. Sep 21, 2023 · 4. Unlike other crimp positions that involve a thumb lock over the index finger for added force, the three-finger drag is particularly effective at engaging the forearm flexors. Pre-injury, I favored a 4 finger grip and would even have said that my 3-finger drag was a weakness. Keep your palm facing the floor and pull straight back with four fingers. Sep 19, 2022 · 0:59:23 – Three finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. 10 reps, 3 sets; Perform twice per day, training one day on, one day off. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. I'm not sure if its going to work. u/artvandelay7 's Neil Gresham link shows drag being used interchangeably with open hand. I started incorporating a slow warm up. Pinky is the only one that can drag (depends on finger/hand anatomy). Moving my pinky up onto the crimp seems to inevitably move me into a half crimp finger position. Apparently north east climbing favors 3 finger open or full crimping and I actively avoided full crimping so the half crimp got left behind. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight half crimp. 安装完成后，在GNOME插件官网中找到“Touchpad Gestures”扩展。 点击“Configure”按钮，进入扩展设置界面。 在“Gestures”选项卡中，找到“Three finger drag”手势。 选择“Enable”选项，并设置手势灵敏度等参数。 点击“Save”按钮保存设置。 4. I've seen really drastic gains in my 3 finger drag, and I have trouble understanding them. Moved Permanently. I wouldn't worry about it too much or apply that high level of expectation. The index is the main differentiating finger between 4 fingers pseudo-open, and a strict half crimp, - The other fingers go where they want; Middle and Ring fingers can go above the edge/be slightly/moderating more in the direction of full crimp. To open the configuration pane, click the ThreeFingerDragOnWindows tray icon on the Windows taskbar. This is due to me using half crimps all the time and rarely using 3 finger drag while climbing unless it's absolutely necessary. I've talked to a few people who are doing custom plans from Lattice Training and it seems Lattice likes to prescribe 30s density hangs for 3fd Continuing middle range rep work for armlifting movements, to improve my grip strength for climbing. Using your fingers in flexion/extension opposition (tightly curling some fingers while maintaining extension in others) increases strain on the tendons (which are Jul 24, 2005 · Kathryn Michele Tinnesand, a 23-year-old Oregon State University student from Hillsboro, was identified Sunday as the climber killed in a mountain climbing accident Saturday. 1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing. Using the hangboard with my feet on the ground helps prep my fingers before some easy warm up climbing. 5 mm. Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. Nov 11, 2024 · The video is very encouraging, though my break is only just above the knuckle, so probably harder to isolate when climbing - even not actively using the little finger on a hold there might often be pressure on the area of the break and I'm not sure how much any splint or whatever might be in the way. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. A bit of background: BW=72kg MVC-7 half crimp= +40kg Stronger back-3 than front-3 half crimp. It can also As a large-handed climber I also love the three finger drag, but the healthy way to do it is less comfortable and feels less strong so when I can get four fingers on, I do. Climbing is technical, but not as rigorous as the sciences when it comes to language. boulders. I think it will stay this way for a while, even if I only train 3 finger drag on a hangboard. couldn't really remember what exactly my hand was doing when i hurt it, and couldn't tell what i Lastly, strengthening the 3-finger drag for climbing will reduce the risk of injuries associated with the pinky finger slipping off and overloading the other fingers. 10 reps, 3 sets; Palm down pulls. But look, this is very often the case: Can crimp with all 4 fingers on no pain + three finger drag (bonus points with dropping of the pinky towards palm) causes lotta pain = (at least, but not necessarily limited to) lumbrical injury (of some kind/degree). . . Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. 配置三指拖动手势. I started at -20% bodyweight with 3 finger drag on the hangboard, and eventually worked up to +20% bodyweight. Lots of regional differences. Jul 29, 2024 · In this Episode I share some thoughts about a grip position that I've been using more often during bouldering, the three finger drag. Another reason to train the three-finger drag is that strength in this grip is a prerequisite for impressive sloper strength. I usually Boulder 3 times per week. This exercise is also known as Three Finger Drag. Nov 11, 2024 · He said I should be extremely cautious about climbing before it is fully strong in three months, but should end up more or less good as new if I do the rehab properly. However, now when I am doing moves that require open hand grips, I almost instinctually switch to a 3 finger drag on the May 20, 2024 · By training your three-finger drag by holding onto climbing holds with this grip, you can significantly enhance your crimping power and contact strength. Nov 10, 2022 · Hangboarding is undoubtedly one of the most sport-specific strength exercises that you can do for climbing, aside from climbing itself. Like the half crimp, the three-finger drag can be trained in a variety of ways: edge lifting, hangboarding, board training and bouldering. I can only hang 10kg for front 3. The document has moved here. couldn't really remember what exactly my hand was doing when i hurt it, and couldn't tell what i Aug 25, 2019 · Light high rep finger curls after climbing and/or light 3 finger drag; Mobility work in hot water bath or hot tub once a day; Extensor strengthening, if it helps; Massage, if it helps; Finger tip pushup supports hold (just holding the top position) with straight fingers. It worked! My 3 finger drag got ALOT stronger, and I feel no tweakiness in both drag/2 finger positions. Jan 21, 2024 · Full crimp, half crimp, open grip, and front three-finger drag are the available options. Like I said: Google it. wow this seems so obvious but is really helpful! i hurt my hand moving quickly above a three-finger pocket a few weeks ago - heard/felt a little crunch in the base of my ring finger, but wasn't sure what happened. Posted a video on facebook. For maximum comfort and effectiveness, start with four fingers and alternate between open and half-crimp positions. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. Jan 22, 2025 · An Electrical Accident Destroyed What She Needed Most for Climbing After countless surgeries and skin grafts, the author was left with seven and three-quarter fingers. Because of the different lenght of my fingers my middle and ring fingers are about 90 degree in this position. Google has many special features to help you find exactly what you're looking for. Try climbing something crimpy during every gym session to help strengthen your fingers. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm normally talking about all grip types except half and full-crimp (3 finger drag, "quarter" crimp, holding slopers, pockets etc) I'm an intermediate climber with long fingers. For reference, my middle finger's finger tip (first pad) is 28. Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. Other potential sources of irritation may be due to repeated closed crimping, which places the thumb joint in abduction and extension (shown left). Some positions feel better for either hold. So on a 10mm edge, I'm getting ~1/3 of my finger pad on it with a half crimp. I have to three-finger drag everything, crimps, slopers, jugs, you name it I drag it. 4 finger open =/= 4 finger drag (4finger drag beeing 3 finger drag + pinky in drag position) 4 finger open is for me having 4 fingers on with my Index finger beeing open (not 90 degree). Continue for up to five or six hangs with each hand. NET Nov 10, 2024 · Our generation used to crimp almost everything (climbs were less steep) but it's terrible for your finger ligaments. Dec 5, 2022 · Links to website, citations, social media, t-shirts: https://linktr. I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. Find a crimpy problem and do some laps on it. Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. This includes what I learned from months May 1, 2024 · The Three Types of Crimps. No reason why I shouldn't work on an awesome three finger drag before then! I'm currently feeling very impressed with the NHS. Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. NET Mar 15, 2018 · While the root cause for unsupporting is that Windows does not fire an event as soon as your fingers touch the pad, but only when you touch the trackpad and raise your fingers, I found a simulation of 3-finger dragging with AutoHotKey: Position your mouse wherever you want to click and drag from and do a 3 finger tap on the touchpad Since quarantine started, I have begun hangboarding for the first time in my climbing career. Finger strength training with an unlevel edge for rehabilitation and to decrease unnecessary stress on the middle two fingers while warming up or training the fingers off the wall. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. Say goodbye to the conventional "tap and drag" method and embrace the seamless three-finger drag. Apr 24, 2023 · Starting to use armlifting as a method of improving my climbing grip strength. (2014) found significant correlations (r = 0. Revamp your Windows experience with an intuitive touchpad drag gesture, inspired by MacOS efficiency. She fell approximately 700 feet while returning from a climb on Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness Area. 1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP joint of the index finger is straight), my pinky is not long enough to reach the crimp, turning my "open crimp" into a 3-finger drag. Light weight, easier on a barbell but can be achieved on dumbbells too. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. Start on your knees and slowly shift weight onto your fingers. Be very careful and listen to I have had synovitis in my middle fingers for a while. High reps (20-30). They just feel comfortable, I don't really know how to explain it. ee/hoopersbetaFor business inquiries: hoopersbeta@gmail. Don’t worry about climbing three grades below your max to do this; you must start somewhere. I'm only trying to help you know where to start your journey. What I have been trying to fix is to work on 2 finger pocket (1pad) it will force the fingers to be in a more open hand position. Hydrotherapy to move blood and lymph. Nov 2, 2024 · This is where I think three-finger drag hangboarding might be useful: in submaximal longer duration hangs to invoke lumbrical elongation (stretch your muscles) but also avoid the risk of injuries. I can hang +15/+20 back 3 for 10 seconds. Right now I'm focusing on two grip types, the three fing I climb in an area where all the rock is limestone, and I did find that 2/3 finger pockets felt significantly less "tweaky" after I started training 3 finger drag on the hangboard. That said, the three-finger drag can be a strong grip if you train it. Timestamps00:00 Start0:5 Moved Permanently. Helps to injury proof you from any type of sloper and pocket holds too. I'm also having this same problem at the moment. Climbing on limestone is my favorite, so I figured trying to bulletproof my hands to pocket strains wasn’t a bad idea. 42-0. Browse this and over 2,000 other exercises in the free Workout Trainer app for iOS and Android. It is now almost caught up. How to do 3-Finger Drag. Get Accidents in North American Climbing Mailed to You! Published annually since 1948, Accidents in North American Climbing documents the year’s most significant and teachable climbing accidents. Apr 1, 2022 · Undercling position with four fingers. ttdsi wqja jujfb jbear wetieos uusf pjdrfmt xlu uwlkzhi qxfxy