Climber and belayer protocol order template A fellow caver or climber, who uses a lifeline to catch someone if they fall off a ladder or climb. It is important for the belayer to have good rope management skills, communication with the climber, and knowledge of multi-pitch systems to ensure a smooth and efficient climb. This lets the belayer know that the rope is tight to the climber and not twisted or stuck anywhere else. Prior to embarking on the climb, it is imperative for both the climber and belayer to conduct a thorough double-check of each other's setup to ensure a safe and secure climbing experience: Knots: Verify that the climber's figure 8 knot is tied correctly. 8. Jun 21, 2023 · The belayer should then double check the climber’s figure 8 knot. “Belay off” inidicates that the belayer has Leader and belayer climbing in Joshua Tree National Park. , “Feet three-oh!”) Announces how much rope remains for the climber. Lead climber gets on the wall. The argument for using "tension" instead is that "take" can be confused with "slack," and confusing those commands would be a very bad thing. The moment the leader clips the first pro, the belayer drops their hands to the rope and starts the belay properly. Climber: “Off belay!” Signals that the climber is anchored in and no The "take" command: Many climbers use this rather than "tension" when they want the belayer to remove slack and take the weight of the climber on the rope. ) Belayer: That's me! Feb 6, 2019 · Accepted Protocol . The lead climber is attached to the rope, which passes through an anchor at the top of the climb. ” (I need to rest on the rope. That’s no easy feat, considering how vulnerable the act of pushing limits high off the deck can leave a climber. Jul 21, 2018 · This usually means the belayer drops the rope and stands with hands outstretched, ready to keep the leader’s head and upper body from smacking anything if they fall before clipping the first piece of gear. Climber: See me! The climber is making a movement where he might collapse. Acting as the climber’s lifeline, the belayer manages the rope to protect against falls, secure rests, and control descents. 7. Jan 9, 2024 · Examine the setups of the climber and the belayer in detail, paying close attention to the carabiners, harnesses, and knots. Lead climbing adds extra challenges that require focus. Sep 19, 2024 · This means that even if the climber makes a mistake, the belayer can quickly correct it, mitigating the risk of accidents. For very new climbers the belay should be tested on the ground. ) Belayer to Climber: “Climb on!” (means: You can go ahead and climb. “Belay on, [Name of Climber]. Make sure the rope is securely locked and clipped. Whether at the base or belaying from a stance, think about how the belayer will catch the climber. Falls can happen quickly and unexpectedly, so thinking ahead can prevent injury to the belayer and reduce the chances of the belayer dropping the climber. ” Jun 20, 2023 · Climber communication is an essential skill that dramatically impacts climber safety. The belayer should keep the rope locked off in the belay device whenever the climber is not moving. Climber: "CLIMBING. Asking the belayer to be prepared to grab him. The climber can then begin their Jun 26, 2023 · In lead belaying, the climber ascends a route with no pre-set rope, clipping the rope into protection points as they progress. This command indicates that the climber is safely anchored or on solid ground and no longer requires belay support. Tether the belayer (piece shown in front for clarity). Belayer Oct 16, 2023 · This is the climber assuring that the belayer is ready to belay. ) Oct 15, 2021 · This lead belayer feeds the rope to a climber who clips the rope to anchors along the rock face. Belayer provides slack. Belayer must belay immediately underneath the first clip until climber has clipped at least the 4th quickdraw and even after, must stay within a reasonable distance from the wall. Climber: "ON BELAY?" As in, "Am I on belay?" Belayer: "BELAY ON. If you have agreed that the climber will rappel, wait for the climber to yell “off belay,” and then respond “belay off”—only then should you remove the rope from your belay device. Climber: “Off belay. Dec 28, 2022 · When a climber is ready to climb, he asks, “Am I on belay?” The belayer says, “Belay on. Climber: Up rope! The climber no longer needs the slack in the rope. Lead climbers must appear safe and confident while leading. Belayer: “Feet [number]!” (e. B: climb on. Belaying is the essential technique that ensures a climber’s safety while ascending, pausing, or descending. Needless to say, the climber stopped climbing for quite a while. This is short for “I’m climbing. Command: On Belay? from: Climber Meaning: Is the rope secured?, Command: Belay on from: Belayer Meaning: The rope is secured and slack taken up so it is tight, Command: Climbing from: Climber Meaning: I wish to climb, Command: Climb on from: Belayer Meaning: I am happy for you to climb, Command: slack from: Climber Meaning: I need some slack rope in order to climb up, Command: Off belay from When the rope is tight, the climber tells the belayer 'that's me'. Rock gyms don’t require belay tests to trick or scare you away. ” When the climber needs slack to make a clip or a move, he says “Slack. Unlike toprope belaying, however, the lead belayer is not solely focused on taking in slack in the rope as the climber moves up a route. 3. ” The climber then says, “Climbing,” and climbs after the belayer replies “Climb on. Communicate with your climbing partner and establish the desired rope tension before they begin climbing. Belayer has constructed the belay system on the rope; rope is secured. Below is the usual group of commands used by a climbing team, either when they are starting from the base of the cliff, from a belay ledge partway up a route, or by a leader who is has put a seconding climber on belay from above. The synergy of this partnership forms the backbone of a secure climbing Mar 16, 2022 · Belayer: (You are) On belay! Climber: (I am) Climbing! Belayer: Climb on! Only after these commands have been exchanged and safety checks executed does the climber leave the ground. Belaying a heavier climber is always tough. " This notifies the belayer that you have left the ground and your life is now in their hands. As the climber moves on the climb, the belayer must make sure that the climber has the right amount of rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. C: clipping. While belaying may seem straightforward, there are a lot of ways a belayer can make a climber feel safe and secure Jan 6, 2020 · The nature of climbing and rappelling causes you to be in areas that do not have the best line of sights. ” (I’ve removed the rope from the belay device. Lead climbers must sign into the Lead Check-In Log at the front counter each day. Aug 15, 2023 · Here are a few key points to cover with your belayer before the next time you tie in. The climber is falling and also placing abrupt strain on the rope. It’s too tight here. Belayer is ready to catch the climber in case something happens. The belayer’s strand of rope is threaded through the belay device according to the manufacturer’s specifications and attached to the belayer’s belay loop on their harness using a locked carabiner. ” Belayer: “Belay off. or Climb! The belayer again indicates she’s prepared for the climber. Next, get into position to start your ascent. ” When he needs the rope pulled tight, he says “Up rope. 2. When ready, the climber yells, "tension!" After you remove all rope slack, you respond with "Gotcha!" Apr 11, 2013 · Climber to Belayer: “Climbing!” (means: I’m going to climb now. The climber indicates he is prepared to begin climbing. climber has fully weighted the rope, does the belayer lower the climber. Both of belayer’s hands should be on the brake rope when lowering. (This can be used at any point in the climb to signal to the belayer to take up slack. Once the climber has reached the top, built an anchor and tied-in, the following commands should take place: Climber: Off belay! Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will then take the rope out of his device. Climber Belayer must take the leader fall without losing control and with minimal rope play. Immediate communication is essential for the climber's safety, and the belayer should not release the rope or cut it unless in an emergency situation. After completing the belay and climbers safety checks, the belayer pulls all the slack. Proper belaying techniques empower the belayer to fulfill their crucial role, while the climber assumes responsibility for effective communication and adherence to safety protocols. Apr 21, 2014 · Before taking the climber off belay, the belayer must be certain what the climber’s intention is. Once your climbing partner is ready to climb, start belaying by: I first saw the dangers of belaying a heavier climber back when I started rock climbing in college. At the Anchor. Setting up the Belay Device. They are in place to ensure you know the safety procedures so you and those you climb with have an enjoyable and Lowering a Climber. The lead belayer pays out rope as the climber progresses, taking in slack and providing a catch in case of a fall. ) “Belay On” Belayer Rope is belayed. Miscommunication while rappelling, multi-pitch climbing, or single-pitch cleaning can create climbing accidents. While top rope climbing is easier to start with, lead climbing introduces new techniques. Before you begin, call, “Climbing” to let your belayer know the climb is starting and they need to belay you. C: climbing. If that is the agreed-upon plan, the climber needs time, and might ask for some rope slack, in order to set this up. ) Commands on the Rock Face: Climber to Belayer: “Slack!” (means: Loosen the rope a little bit. As you are unable to see directly what the climber or rappeller is seeing or experiencing, the next best thing is to communicate verbally. Jul 24, 2024 · Being a Second Set of Eyes for the Climber. In top-rope belaying, the rope is already anchored at the top of the climb, and the belayer takes in slack as the climber ascends, ensuring a tight line at all times. Belaying is one of the most critical aspects of rock climbing, ensuring the safety and security of both the climber and the belayer. Approach the rock climbing wall or the summit you plan to climb. On multi-pitch routes, build an anchor with the master point at chest level or higher for the belayer. Climbing. B: belay on! This is the confirmation that is always necessary before the climber gets on the rock. Anyone who’s ever taken a climbing gym belay test knows how to perform a thorough If the climber weighs more than the belayer, a fall usually lifts the belayer into the air, naturally softening the fall for the climber. Feb 22, 2020 · Once the belay device is set up properly, both the climber’s and the belayer’s pre-climb checks are complete and all climbing commands are said, the climber can get on the wall. Feb 9, 2020 · How to belay properly is the most essential skill in climbing, because catching a fall well hinges entirely on the belayer. Sep 21, 2021 · Say "Climbing" to let your belayer know you’re climbing. Communicate and Establish the Climbing Rope Tension. Make sure the anchor points are secure by Jul 26, 2023 · Catching the climber Keep the rope organized and distractions minimized. ” Belayer: (Reposition to brake. Dec 15, 2020 · Climber: “Tension. According to the Climbing Business Journal, approximately 27% of climbing accidents are attributed to equipment failure, making regular checks vital for preventing mishaps. Confirm that the belayer has closed the system properly with a stopper knot Jun 15, 2012 · Some climbers recommend anchoring a light belayer to the ground, but this may cause the falling leader to experience a hard, shocking fall. A top-rope belayer stands at the base of the wall and takes in rope slack as the top-rope climber ascends. The climber will then say, climbing, after which the belayer will say, climb on. The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Command Person Meaning Order number (1 to 7) Belay On Belayer The rope is secured and slack taken up so it is tight. Repeat with increasing height only after belayers show competence. “Slack” or none Jan 20, 2022 · When a climber is ready to climb, he asks, “Am I on belay?” The belayer says, “Belay on. On Belay When the belayer is ready to belay, they tell the climber they are 'on belay' and they can 'climb when ready'. Not only that, both parties put in the effort to learn and implement what their partner needs from a belayer to feel safe and secure while climbing. The belayer is ready to brake any falls. This limits the distance the climber can fall. Off Belay Climber I wish to be detached from the rope. ” “Climbing, [Name of Belayer]. Belayer actively belays. ” At the conclusion of the climb, the climber can say “Off belay” to signal to the belayer to release tension on the rope. The lead climber has clipped in one of the Basic Climbing Knots Video. )*** Belayer: (Take in all slack and hold tight. Absent Friends, Dan y Lleuad Wen. 4. Because the belayer acts as a counterweight it’s ideal for it to weigh as much as the lead. So, if the lead weighs 175 lbs, the belayer should weigh no less than 123 lbs. If there is a substantial weight difference, the belayer will likely be pulled up and into the wall. Make sure both hands never leave the rope! Nov 17, 2020 · Climber: Climbing. When all these double checks are affirmed, the belayer can confidently continue to communicate. Belayer: Climb on! Signal they are ready for the climber. As a belayer, you manage the rope, catch falls, and provide essential support throughout the climb. The belay device, which is a mechanism that helps the belayer ‘catch’ the climber by creating more friction on the rope or locking it in place with a braking device. ” (I’m secure, do not need belay anymore. Mar 21, 2024 · Getting your belay certification is an exciting step on your rock climbing journey. However, if the climber weighs significantly more, a fall could cause the belayer to slam into the rock or be ‘sucked in’ to the first piece of gear. As the belayer, you typically only see the bottom half of your partner who is climbing or rappelling. Aug 31, 2018 · If you’re in a crowded area, common etiquette is to preface commands with your climbing partner’s name. As the climber proceeds up the wall, it is the belayer’s job to take up the rope and make sure there is no slack in the system. Not all lead climbers get down via this method, but lowering is a common practice. ” Mar 16, 2024 · In climbing partnerships, both climber and belayer share accountability for safety. For example, if a lead climber has safely attached to their climbing anchor, they will loudly shout, “John, off belay!” and their belayer will respond with, “Nate, you are off belay!” or “Nate, belay is off!” Jun 23, 2024 · In multi-pitch belaying, the climber and belayer work together to ascend each pitch, with the belayer managing multiple ropes and anchor points. ) Climber: Climbing! The climber signals that he is ready the climber begins to fall, you will not be able to regain control of the rope, and the climber may be injured. However, the more a belayer weighs, the safer the lead will be. ) “Lowering. Top-rope belaying: In top-rope climbing, a rope runs up and down a rock wall and is threaded through an anchor on the summit. ) Belayer: “Belay off. Belayer: “Halfway!” Informs the climber that half the rope length has been used. Whether you’ve been climbing together for decades already or just met that morning, these considerations will make your belaytionship stronger than ever. ” Belaying is a technique used in rock climbing, whereby one person (the belayer) takes in the slack rope through a device attached to their harness, while the other climber (the lead climber) climbs. Waist belt snug around the The minimum a belayer can weigh is 70% of the lead climber. “Climb On” “Slack” Climber I need some slack. Read on to grasp the key skills for climber communication in single pitch and multi-pitch scenarios. In most cases, allowing a sport-climbing belayer to move around decreases the chance of injury to the leader and belayer, and also lowers the force applied to the system. ” Nov 14, 2024 · The belayer should lock off the rope and brace for the impact. At 3:02 we review how to tie a Figure 8 and then the Figure 8 follow Through. This will vary based on the climbing route and the climber’s preference. Command: On Belay? from: Climber Meaning: Is the rope secured?, Command: Belay on from: Belayer Meaning: The rope is secured and slack taken up so it is tight, Command: Climbing from: Climber Meaning: I wish to climb, Command: Climb on from: Belayer Meaning: I am happy for you to climb, Command: slack from: Climber Meaning: I need some slack rope in order to climb up, Command: Off belay from Climber and belayer protocol . Safety Checks. ) Belay-off! Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then pull up all the slack. Belayer: "CLIMB ON. Mar 20, 2025 · Climbers should inspect their devices before and after each use, checking for signs of wear, damage, or excessive friction. It is the basis for a relationship of absolute trust between climber and belayer, because the belayer, literally, holds the climber’s life in their hands. g. Knowing these helps the belayer manage safety better. The climber fell almost the entire height of the rock wall before the belayer caught her. " The belayer acknowledges the start of the climb. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. “Thank you”, “Climbing”, or none “Climbing” Climber I’m ready to start climbing. " or "CLIMB AWAY. A belayer will normally use some form of belay device or knot (such as an Italian hitch), so Apr 11, 2013 · Climber to Belayer: “Climbing!” (means: I’m going to climb now. ) Climber: “Ready to lower. Make sure that the climber and the belayer are aware of each other’s movements and are speaking clearly to each other. Nov 14, 2024 · Belaying: The Backbone of Climbing Safety. Asks belayer to take it in. Start Belaying. ” Climber: “Off belay. Once they have each verified each other’s safety mechanisms, the climber will ask, on belay? If the belayer’s system is secure, they will reply, belay on. Climber: That's me! (When the climber feels the tug of the rope) Belayer: Belay on! (This lets the climber know they are ready) Climber: Climbing! Signal they are ready to start climbing. A belayer using a lifeline with a belay device. ) Belayer to Climber: “Slacking!” (means: I’m loosening the rope a bit. This is a big part of their job. In essence, a proper belay is a team effort, where both the climber and belayer work together to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. The belayer checks the climber. Reduced Risk of Accidents Mar 15, 2016 · The climber displays their tie-in, harness, helmet, and climbing rope, while inspecting the belayer’s harness, belay setup, helmet, and ground anchor. Lead belaying involves a more dynamic relationship between the climber and the belayer. Here are some … Dec 10, 2024 · The best belaytionships have respect for both sides of the equation. The belayer regulates the tension and slack of the rope to protect the climber from falling, making the technique crucial for both indoor and outdoor climbing activities. Nov 1, 2021 · The belayer is far less likely to be pulled into the rock if she’s ready for a fall. The belayer feeds out slack as the climber ascends. The climber only says this command when it is safe to do so at their destination. Climbing Climber I wish to climb. It’ll allow you to venture beyond the auto-belays and boulder mats, form belaytionships, and challenge yourself in new ways. Belay Off Belayer The belay The climber needs extra rope in order to make the first move or to finish taking apart his belay anchor. Just like above. As the climber goes up, the belayer watches for falls and mistakes. In lead climbing, the climber ascends the route while clipping the rope into protection (such as bolts or traditional gear) along the way. Mastering belaying techniques can significantly enhance your climbing experience and help prevent accidents. . When the climber returns to the ground or attaches herself to an anchor and wishes to be removed from the security of the belay, she states, “Off belay!” In the event of a fall, the belayer should keep tension on the rope to prevent further movement and check on the climber’s condition. To begin belaying, one must first understand the fundamentals, including the roles of the brake hand and guide hand, and how they work in concert to ensure the climber’s safety. Belayer: Climb on. Harness correct fit & use per manufacturer. " The climber is secure in the belay system. exbxv jft tlydqqwq fglfdk uxkovs esbyqsn qgrkh zsjv lkvo muzx