Gear needed for multi pitch climbing reddit without load lifters will not that difficult. Having said that, if you are climbing in an area with bolted belays, it simplifies things tremendously (opposed to building gear anchors). then in my experience for multipitch climbing you need another grade of margin for every crux pitch. Multi-Pitch Sport climbing in Yosemite. Familiarize yourself with what a two bolt belay looks like, and how to belay off the anchor if needed. Real-World Examples of Girth-Hitch Masterpoint Anchors You'll need to do all of the above, but also essentially get comfortable onsighting 7a while tired. Conversely, some traditionalists swear that the traditional 50-meter rope is better since it’s lighter and easier to manage on hanging belays. A buddy is gonna do some easy multi-pitch sport climbing with me this weekend and I would like to have an idea of the steps involved. Since I am looking for bolted multi pitch, it is pretty hard to find. , your body weight, from the climbing rope onto the fixed anchor. Nov 10, 2022 · In most cases, you will be climbing on and rappelling with dynamic ropes, especially for sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing. To be suitable for multi-pitch climbing, a harness has to meet two criteria: it needs to have gear loops big enough to carry all the gear you will need (more important on trad routes), and it needs to be comfortable enough to hang in. When I used the Rocky Talkies in the Cirque of the Towers, in Wyoming’s Wind River Range, even weaving in and out of gendarmes on Wolfshead peak, when my partner and I were out of sight of each other, the Jul 25, 2022 · For multi-pitch. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Try out these tricks on shorter routes so that when you’re faced with 15 pitches, or 10 long rappels, you’ll have these techniques dialed in and ready to put to use. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. Clove into the shelf. Modest gear skills can get you up some easy routes for sure, but if you're doing this stuff without courses or a mentor (which was my path, I'm 100% self taught, which is totally possible) take it slow and steady, don't get too stoked on the idea of alpine climbing and get out of your depth. Any puffy that can fold into its own pocket tends to work well for a multipitch. There are some multi pitch sport routes in my area and I want to start climbing them so I’m looking for some tips on the additional skills needed such as belaying from a set of anchor bolts I'm interested to hear what everyone's own best practices for bailing on a route entail. Aug 28, 2021 · In most areas, multi-pitch climbing unlocks new cliffs and vast amounts of new terrain. If you're doing sport multi pitch you don't need much else than some slings/cordelette, something to belay a follower from above with, and some extra lockers, really. Alpine style cylinder pack (BD speed) 30-40L if you are climbing in the backcountry. As an expert in multi-pitch climbing gear, it’s crucial to emphasize the importance of proper techniques for seamless transitions between pitches. ATC guide in the master point and go. Prince of Darkness - good if you hate your toes and want to teach them a lesson. Mastering multi-pitch maneuvers means merging efficient belaying, communication systems, and streamlined strategies to ensure a safe and swift ascent. Taking my pack up for something less than 4 pitches always seems overkill and it gets in the way. But pure sport multi pitch routes are super rare and will usually be mixed/trad lines, so the progression usually is: single pitch sport > single pitch trad > multi pitch trad On long multi-pitches, it's wise to bring the following equipment in addition to everything you would normally take on a single pitch. To operate a belay station on a multi-pitch climb you need at least 3 locking ‘biners but it’s nice to have 4. essentially, don't make cleaning the pitch a pain. Thank you guys in advance :) Apr 29, 2024 · ⊕ Ideal for those new to multi-pitch anchor-building ⊕ Intuitive and strong (22kn) ⊗ A little awkward to carry. Can anyone recommend a good backpack for short multi-Pitch climbing (2 to 5 pitches)? Nothing bigger than 35 L that’s durable but not too bulky so I can wear it while I climb. We’ll cover the basics of what you need to get going: how to prepare, what gear you’ll need, the step-by-step process of multi-pitch climbing, and other logistical issues. I have an ambition of climbing a large multi pitch sport route in particular I have my eye on Diedro UBSA (5c) on Penon de Ifach in the Costa Blanca… This video covers all the basic knots (figure eight, clove hitch, munter hitch) and anchor building basics for multipitch climbing. You get this by taking a test or doing a course, both held by DBKK. I’ve got 2x 50 ( for all multi pitches where I do not need 60m - to spare 10m rope handling per pitch) 2x 60 multi pitch where 60 is needed 1x 50 (for most mountaineering stuff and some multi pitches where I know I will not rappel - mostly easy stuff 1x 30m Rad line for securing a second where I don’t need a rope. always prefer cams to nuts, unless you're climbing block stacks or some shit like that. This works for both spor If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. It doesn't fit my shoes :( but the water bladder placements are perfect for easy access. I use a Petzl sitta for alpine and a padded thing for indoors. I've done winter hikes in New England, been at elevation in Colorado and Ecuador, and done a bunch of multi-pitch climbing, but I've never combined the three at once haha. if you're block leading, place 2 bomber pieces, clip a 120cm sling, girth Nov 18, 2016 · The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors fast. I have experience on single pitch trad and some experience on simple multi pitch trad climbs, but I’ve never led more complicated, longer trad climbs. speaking of gear, dont fuck around forever with the anchor. Because trad climbing is more gear intensive than sport climbing, it is also more time-consuming. Extra Climbing Gear You’ll need two anchor kits for a multi-pitch route. My only shoe is the La Sportiva Mythos as a multi pitch shoe but I want one that helps improve my climbing on harder single pitch routes. A "course standard" is available on the federations website, but it is in Danish. I struggle to find anything that's women specific because I have a very short back and all the backpacks I've tried so far were way too tall on me - I wouldn't be able to reach my chalkbag and sometimes they even restricted my ability to look up with a helmet on. (Ideally something with some support that could bê hauled) The main packs I’ve looked are the BD Creek series, Patagonia cragsmith, and North Face Cinder. I have extensive hiking and rock climbing experience (mostly sport, little bit of trad) but no mountaineering experience to speak of. Make a quad. Dec 12, 2022 · Combined with multi-pitch staples like alpine draws, a couple of lockers, and a chalk-bag belt made of 6mm cord, I’ve found that this minimalist kit can get you out of almost any sticky situation. Multi pitch sport climbing shouldn't be too difficult a leap to a guy leading 11s. However, if you are strictly learning the skill of rappelling, you might be working with static ropes. Before We Begin, Two Important Things to Stress I agree with everyone about finding in person instruction. The molded gear loops are easy to clip, and while they won't hold enough gear for most trad climbing, they hold plenty of quickdraws and associated belay and rappelling gear for multi-pitch sport climbing. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. They are comfortable when hanging, but they are hot as hell, bulky, and intrusive. While one racks up or sorts gear, the other can flake or coil the rope. 8 classics, like cat in the hat, olive oil, dark shadows, and other similar climbs. 9 and take falls on progressively less overhung routes. Nov 8, 2024 · The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors quickly. CAMP Nova (floppy gear loops, okay otherwise) Petzl SITTA (love the gear loops on this and the packability but super lightweight; better for alpine than for comfy cruising) millions of different BD harnesses that don’t fit correctly and often have missing or tiny back gear loops depending on the size The mini haul bag style packs that are marketed for multi-pitch climbing don't carry very well but are great for climbing back-to-back hard pitches and new routes where you'll be spending a lot more time on the wall and need extra food/water/equipment. 6-5. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. Needs 4 good size gear loops for trad rack. . 4 Locking Carabiners: An assortment of locking carabiner options. Some REI runner vest. Leading on gear, cleaning a pitch, and re-racking all take longer than they do when sport climbing. I almost always use a bomber natural anchor when available though. Seriously, learn how to trad climb now! You won't regret it. I've already researched it a bit, but I'd just like one more point of reference. Hey, I‘m looking for a shoe that’s made for single pitch rock climbing. 9. Being a strong free climber helps to move more quickly on most walls. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. I prefer the lightest ‘biners I can find for this. A friend and I will be climbing in the Germany/Austria area for a week and are looking for fully bolted multi-pitch climbs in the 300m-500m range, graded 6c or below (very specific, I know). Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six spare screwgates - Two belay devices I’m looking to buy a climbing pack, I’m not sure if it is to much to ask, but I was looking for a pack I can use for both cragging single pitch climbs, and multi pitch days. To save time, it’s important that partners learn to work as a team. Make sure you pick up the latest edition of Climbing Anchors. To climb on the MP wall at Amager Bakke you need a certification issued by DBKK or the Danish climbing federation. The Sewn Anchor System is one of those things you probably didn’t know you needed until it existed—a self-equalizing, self-adjusting anchor system for two-bolt (or two ice-screw) belays on multi-pitch climbs. In terms of difficulty, ideally, you should try to lead harder than 5. For general multi-pitch free climbing, I wouldn't get one of the "big wall" harnesses. I have plans to follow a bunch of routes this summer with experienced and knowledgeable folks from the semi local climbing club, so I'm sure many questions will get answered with time. I recently got into climbing 2 months ago so I‘m kinda overwhelmed by the variety and opinions on shoes. Then, you can untie your climbing knots and use the rope to rig the rappel. Likewise, yelling really any information aside from an expected 'John! Jun 13, 2023 · For technical climbing, you’ll probably never need more than a rope-length of operational range, so that’s way more than sufficient. It can range from leading single pitch on trad to multi pitch, handling rope lengths longer than half the rope, learning half ropes, tactics in multiple abseils etc. But if you throw a rope around your shoulders, it will probably squeeze out some water. The big question is do you climb that many pitches of a similar length in a day at a single pitch crag? If the answer’s yes then you don’t need to worry that much about your stamina but bear in mind that, assuming you’ll be swinging leads with your partner you’ll be leading pitches straight after seconding the previous one so if you usually really need a rest after climbing a pitch you Hey guys, I've been busting into grade IV multi pitch, and my most consistent problem has been running out of time in the day. There are dozens of ways to do it correctly—as well as horribly wrong. My fiance and I have been talking about the idea of climbing and getting married by one of our friends once we reached the top. It has two ice-axe attachments, two side compression straps, a rope strap, an external mesh side pocket, an internal zippered pocket, and a removable waist belt. Once I get to the 2 bolts at the top of the first pitch: I need to anchor in. Doesn't exist. Knowing the right knot for the right situation makes for safe, efficient climbers. Posted by u/Peeze_Deeze - 1 vote and 8 comments Here is a list of books I have on my shelf currently and feel are valuable: Climbing anchors More climbing anchors Trad climbing: surviving the learning years Speed climbing Self rescue falcon guide Flash training Rock warriors way Extreme alpinism Big walls falcon guide Big wall climbing elite technique On rope Complete guide to rope technique Mastering multi-pitch maneuvers means merging efficient belaying, communication systems, and streamlined strategies to ensure a safe and swift ascent. But I want to learn as much as possible now while I have the reading time. -Lead belaying -Carrying a pack -Following (aka top rope climbing) -Cleaning gear -Assessing the anchor that the leader setup -learn to clove-hitch into the anchor -Handing off gear to the leader (so learn to organize while you pull the gear and rerack it) -Flipping the rope (because if you don't swap leads the rope will be upside down for the This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. From my experience, try used gear as puffies are both expensive and fragile, they can easily be damaged while on a big day of climbing. I plan on climbing some of the 5. Hi, I'm looking for a backpack to take multipitch climbing next month. Start with a few pitches, then do a 5-pitch route (like anything on manure pile buttress), then a 10 pitch, then a 15 pitch (ex. 9 and below climber outdoor, so wanted to find something she could do as well. Anyone try a Camelbak or hydration vest? Hi anyone have a recommendation for a climbing harness for mountain trad use? Needs to be fairly packable and light for carrying (about 300-350g) but also reasonably comfortable for multi pitch use and hanging stances etc. I'm going to use the assumption that the reason for bailing is largely irrelevant here (ie: inability to finish a single pitch, or multi-pitch route due to insufficient skill, gear, safety (missing bolts), weather, etc). Part 4—Learn to Climb Trad: Knots, Rappelling, and Logistics. The thing is his wife is a 5. Planning to step up from single pitch sport routes to multi-pitch sport + trad climbs. if you do, don't fucking yarn on them -- seat them with a small tug. It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. However in trad anchors, a good friend will hold up to 8 to 10 kN (assuming it's well placed!), which isn't that much especially with static materials when you don't have much rope in the system (eg, when the 2nd falls close to On long multi-pitches, it's wise to bring the following equipment in addition to everything you would normally take on a single pitch. Basically leading on trad depending on level of experience) If you're spending any time climbing multipitch climbs of any consequence, you should have your systems and process dialed in and discussed with your partner before climbing to the point where communication between belays is almost never necessary. *Rock climbing level 2 (this depends on the student. Even on bolted climbs, very often you will have to bring some supplement gear and/or the bolts are pretty run out. Jan 13, 2023 · Instead of spending your multi-pitch climbs untangling a rope, learn a few simple methods that will help you spend more time sending. People have different preferences for multi-pitch rope length. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. The guys above you in practical terms gave you gear for basically all mountains, but which mountain you bring them on is what matters if you just brought all of that gear you would be massively heavy and not even use the majority on most mountains, let alone fitting all that in the recommend 60L pack, different gear models and brands pack down I know most people use static anchors, as it works fine for bolted multi-pitch routes as bolts can handle up to 30kN. Sixty meters is standard, but some climbers like to link pitches by using 70-meter or 80-meter cords. We won't be bringing a rack with us so won't be able to do trad climbs but want to try longer multipitches. east buttress of el cap). So: Climb the first pitch like a regular sport climb. Have fun and be safe my dude. 35L version with that gear setting will be painful for your shoulder and painful to you lack of enough space. I have a good bit of bolted multi pitch experience. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six spare screwgates - Two belay devices Apr 4, 2025 · The leg loops and waist belt are super comfortable while climbing, walking around the crag, or belaying your partner on their project. I’d also want to be able to store my rope outside of the bag to leave room for gear and stuff. As others have stated, nothing wrong with some QuickDraws on a trad route (maybe a nut is placed at a crux and you aren’t worried about it walking and it makes you feel better about fall potential; maybe the route is mixed and you want to clip the bolt with a QuickDraw; maybe it’s Nov 9, 2023 · The second step on your journey is to get comfortable leading and falling on sport climbs with a rating of at least 5. The rule of thumb for single pitch climbing is that your onsight and redpoint are typically separated by 4 grades. Dynamic ropes stretch to help absorb the shock of falling climber and soften the catch. Read the full article. As someone who is mostly a sport climber and not used to runouts, I liked having gear on that route for pitch 1 (very easy, but could use a couple pieces up high), pitch 3 and pitch 5, where there are sections of crack that aren't bolted - I maybe used 2 small cams on each pitch. They are not your typical "sport" climbs. It weighs merely 340 grams with all these accessories and 240 without. Considering a Camelbak or hydration vest but I have various concerns that it'll get in the way of a gear sling, it could reduce freedom of motion, and/or the bladder wouldn't stand up to the rigor of climbing. What we ended up with, and what I still carry on my back gear loop every time I multi-pitch climb, was a small locker holding a few items. With that said: basic gear for multi pitch free climbing would include a helmet for each climber, rock shoes, chalk bag, a dynamic rope in the 10mm or greater range and of length in excess of 60m (more common in 70m or greater these days), possibly a second rope depending on how long the rappels will be to get off the route, climbing protection See full list on 99boulders. com May 12, 2017 · These guys are used to rack my multi-pitch kit on my harness. e. Obviously this means… Sep 5, 2024 · The Stache UL is a super-light pack intended for alpinists and multi-pitch rock and ice climbers. Cheers Jul 10, 2023 · For example, in a multi-pitch climbing scenario where you plan to descend on the fixed anchors you just used for climbing the last pitch, rigging a rappel involves transferring the load, i. Jan 13, 2022 · If you find yourself without that option, hopefully you’ve got the requisite skill and experience to problem-solve in other ways—choosing a different rigging, relocating the belay, down climbing, simul-climbing to a better stance, bailing, etc. It's just so much more gear + time efficient and makes me feel extra safe. Get something light, reasonably comfortable, and able to hold some gear - no need for 19 gear loops if you aren't spending 6 hours on some A4 pitch. gyeepg kqh bqso yoqd yxnencw eyt hmap uqwht plcfsg gqknbcl