Aid climbing reddit His main point is that the grading of aid climbing is based on danger, but the danger doesn't actually exist. If you say you free climbed a route, but you actually aided on the crux, then that is unethical. Quit acting like bouldering with a chalk belt on makes… Posted by u/tradotto - 13 votes and 7 comments And sends with minimal pro. You can take a small nut and slide the nut itself down to expose the loop, slip that over the bolt head, and slide the nut back up to hold it on. Figure out your basic aid system, and aquire the proper basic aid tools (ladders, daisys, fifi, jugs). instead of resting). I’m pretty new to climbing and tonight got a pretty bad flapper on my inner knuckle. The thing that irritates my fingers the most is gym climbing. Just keep working it in the most comfortable way you can make it, and have fun! Learning to crack climb was crucial for me being able to go the places I wanted to with my climbing. 24 votes, 16 comments. Go do a route on Washington Column or Leaning Tower with a bivy. 76 votes, 13 comments. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 17 comments Also, aid ladders aren’t stiff, so it takes a lot of core strength to maintain your balance, which becomes critical as gear placements become more tenuous. Managed to get rid of it first time by sleeping with a splint, avoiding crimps, and climbing a bunch of slopers in font in April. While free climbing tends to be forearm (and sometimes core) intensive, aid climbing works the whole body pretty evenly, with a focus on the large core muscles, glutes, and biceps. I love aid climbing myself. Also some of the most physically difficult climbing I've done is aid, since big wall climbing usually has a significant amount of aid involved and big walls are exhausting. It sounds like you are fairly inexperienced. Or just clips directly into bolts (sport). 22 votes, 26 comments. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Honestly you’d probably see more people hauling than anything else. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Posted by u/baroldgene - 10 votes and 15 comments I followed/cleaned and learned from friends, read some books on anchor building then went out and applied what I learned. Crypto Posted by u/Financial-Drama-9813 - 1 vote and no comments Trying to change it around for margins super early on is like doing the Ondra Two-Shoe for performance in your first 6 months of climbing. Oh I wasn’t shitting on you. *Aid climbing (also depending on skill level but everything from basic aid technique, placing aid gear such as copper heads and pitons to big wall techniques, hauling, using tag lines, portal edges, rope soloing and so on) *self rescue level 1 (rescuing an injured 2nd climber. this all comes up when googling either one, so I don't really see any additional value of the website. Reddit India bikes lovers gather here. The home of Climbing on reddit. I mean there's people that argue ice/mixed climbing is all aid anyway regardless of heel spurs. How do you pick your aid ladder? Staggered or conventional steps? How many steps? I’m 5’6, so I’m wondering if I can get away with 4 steps. 15 votes, 14 comments. I know aid climbing requires as lot of "blue collar" strength with all the high stepping and what not but I prefer the feeling free climbing and hanging off my fingers and toes. 10-15 sets of 10-15 second hangs, at like 50-60% of max, rest 1-2 minutes between (ideally pushups, pullups, core, etc. No, that was just a thing he said. hello , i'm just curious about using this kind of bolt in aid climbing , something similar was used a lot in the 90s in my area before the thing was completely forgotten and the two guys who putted them in place disappeared . it's dangerous. If you make it your main goal, its yours. Easy to grow, stunning variation, and often a bad attitude - explore the most laidback houseplant you’ll ever have (Scindapsus & vining Philodendron welcome too, since most people call them pothos anyway) “It has been XX days since my accident, solo-aid climbing in Yosemite Valley. Pretty phenomenal climbing, and I actually preferred the community/vibe here to Ten Sleep. Deep-water soloing - as the name suggests, climbing unroped above water deep enough to stop you before you hit the bottom. I tried to use as little jargon as possible. 66 votes, 17 comments. Its not that hard to get there you just gotta climb a lot. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Action Movies & Series; Animated Movies & Series; Comedy Movies & Series; Crime, Mystery, & Thriller Movies & Series The climb is also a ton of crack climbing, which you could train if you found crack boulders, but if you're in a bouldering gym, you'll have trouble learning those techniques at all. could be old school Looped daisys- or adjustable, but you won’t be using the adjustable function to FiFi in on each piece- you’ll only use the adjustable to set length on your top Jug while ascending and for moving and adjusting around belays. Post latest news, reviews, opinions, pics, etc here. Cars related discussion is not allowed 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Climbing El cap kind of explicitly requires climbing the actual geological feature, not a rope hanging off of it. (🇮🇳-🏍️) Place for all Indian riders to discuss news, reviews and motorcycle trips. With difficult aid climbing you are deliberately putting yourself in danger, you know you're putting yourself in danger, and you have to stand there and watch that flake you're hooking onto flex with nothing but body weight placements for the last 20 feet. The job is basically all horizontal aid climbing with steel strops over C beams. having good knees is aid. Just the idea of having a concrete structure that you can aid with a roof seems wildly lucky. It was a lot of practicing and a lot of planning and then a lot of blue collar work on a relatively unimpressive climb. Crypto When you're climbing outside on sharp holds for multiple days in a row there's definitely a benefit to having thick dry skin. Proper nutrition. I'm trying to get more efficient at aid climbing, I'd really like to climb El Capitan next year via some route or another. Check out some of the videos on my channel linked in my bio. Aid climbing stands in opposition to free climbing. Terms & Policies Rock is aid, and bouldering, free climbing, free soling, and r/ClimbingCircleJerk: Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour. This man, on a super busy night, somehow has time to put on his shoes, and start to solo up 30/40 feet. just you and your hands, with a rope to catch you is you fall. 760 votes, 536 comments. Lead pretty much every pitch except for a few, fixing the whole way, and freeing most 5. I've seen the fan get good usage blowing on a hold to keep it cold if you're trying the climb enough that the holds are starting to get a bit warm. And if you zipper along enough line of gear you can take a factor 2 fall onto the anchor which you and your belayer better hope is not built from marginal gear 10 votes, 28 comments. Meru (and El cap also) uses a technique called aid climbing, where removable gear is used to make progress instead of hands and feet. 18 votes, 30 comments. Practice efficient climbing, hauling, changeovers, etc. New comments cannot be posted. Get home, antiseptic wipe them leave to breathe, in the morning before work if they are particularly sore put a normal plaster to protect from infection. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. If it wasn't for aid climbing, I wouldn't've had the chance to shit in a bag three feet from a friend and piss in a bottle with small chicken chunks in it. Aid climbing might seem like cheating to some people, but truly difficult aid routes can be A week later we climbed Kingfisher in the Fisher Towers. All in all I'd be surprised if someone only training bouldering got more than a pitch up El Cap, using any route. After assessing my injuries: fractured ribs, transverse patella fracture, deep lacerations in the inner thigh, I still had to manually ascend the rope to get my phone to call for help. The most life saving piece of anyone's first aid kit is their education. The way I’ve always dealt with them is tape over while climbing and on the way home. Aliens, offset cams, and totems are bomber for the little stuff. Apr 18, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. free soloing: same as free climbing minus any and all protection. 5. Now that I’m done climbing for a few days would you guys recommend a normal bandaid or the climbing tape? I’d like to start my aid climbing setup, to get more comfortable with trad placements and start on the path to big walls. There are routes you can aid, but it's really nothing like aiding granite out west not just in the rock type, protection, and angle, but also, a lotttt of climbing a wall is learning how to be efficient not just in placements/climbing, but in everything Yes seriously. walking on Ice and mixed climbing. air is aid. The biggest thing to remember is that it is a fall prevention system, not a fall arrest system. Then try a shorter wall like the leaning tower or the column. holding the gate open is aid. Was fine for several months, took a little time out of climbing to heal a shoulder injury (on opposite arm), and weirdly it came back, despite the total rest. An aid grade of A5 on something would make it a badass aid climb that 'core aid climbers would take a crack at for the sake of the aid pitch. It is not physically easier than routine trad free climbing; quite the opposite. Careful with the removable threaded bolts. I've been teaching myself some big wall and aid skills using Chris McNamara's book. not doing it free means you may put tools in the rock and climb on that (aid climbing) free solo means you do it all yourself and no rope to catch you if you fall For all the freaks that don't think climbing with your hands is dignified and prefer to utilize clever systems of gear and trickery to create upwardly mobile clusterfucks. aid climbing: using ropes and gear to pull yourself up the mountain. Use this to your advantage. It weighs nothing, and without it, everything else in your first aid kit is worthless. 92K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. It can allow you to short fix after hauling so that there is always upward progress for the team. There is a belayer here also. You'll want at least doubles of most cams. You place a piece of gear, test it, clip your ladder to it, transition from your last piece to you current piece, unclip your ladder from the previous piece, clip your rope into that previous piece, and repeat. At the gym I put a bandaid on it but it bled through and I’m at home now. My general mantra on a trip is dry skin for climbing, moist skin for healing. I️ was wondering what you would suggest for beginner aiders. aid climbing is pretty clear. Then you have the non-load bearing chest harness to keep the micro trax upright like so. In aid climbing, you place gear (like trad climbing) and then you use cloth ladders, called aiders or etriers, to put your body weight on the gear and move upwards until you can place another piece of gear. Squat: Climbing tends to emphasis single leg strength, so pistol squats are king Hip hinge: Deadlift Explosive full body movement: KB swings, Turkish Get Ups, etc. Posted by u/climbinrocks - 12 votes and 6 comments 78 votes, 26 comments. Will Gadd Mountaineering medicine (comprehensive wilderness first aid) Climbing self rescue Mountain guides manual (advanced climbing skills) Advanced Rock Climbing, expert skills and techniques Accidents in north american climbing (any year) Rock climbing anchors - a comprehensive guide free climbing means you climb all pitches without any assistance going up. Hey everyone, been climbing for about 1. When the grappling hook is placed on the little edge or hole in the wall, the "string" that it is attached to pulls the grappling hook down and against the wall disabling the grappling hook from moving about. 3. A year or two ago, I started posting aid climbing pics on r/climbingcirclejerk every day with the title "is this aid", to mock the fact that that sub is just the same jokes over and over and over again. Nov 3, 2010 · My how to aid climb steps 1. Not sure if alpine aiders would be the best thing to learn on but they seem the lightest and most compact. after leading routes, Id ask for feedback from friends on my placements. 13 votes, 11 comments. installing holds is aid. I had a significant fall where I hit 3 ledges before my rope caught me. If you do, it means you're doing it wrong. 'Free idealy' is probably not gonna happen in a couple years but I've been finding aid climbing to be just as fun in its own ways. Here's a pic of my setup, . I'd suggest learning to trad climb and then see if el cap is something you'd like to pursue. If it gets big then it’s just gonna create a whole new bunch of ethics/access problems when people who don’t know any better or don’t give a shit start drytooling on climbing crags 31 votes, 16 comments. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Business, Economics, and Finance. Yes shoes matter a lot. Without chalk you will lose skin much faster on rough holds and have a higher chance of taking a chunk out or getting a flapper. Non-climbers often call this "free climbing", but "free climbing" really refers to any climbing in which only the climber's body is used to gain height (as opposed to aid climbing, see below). How do I maximize recovery on non-climbing/workout days? I do yoga on non-climbing days, mixed with abs / core exercises at home. Do this daily (after climbing if I was climbing that session). 63 votes, 30 comments. If it is, do some basic aid climbing and then learn to haul. Big motivation is I live in a country where there are almost unlimited un-climbed Big walls. By far the scariest and most mentally difficult climbing I've done has been aid. I also literally cried from happiness. People got tired of it after 20 or so posts and they were downvoted. I have been surprised hiking with people who did not know how to properly treat their own blisters. Got mine in Jan from crimping. Therefore, to prove something is free climbing it needs to be free of the hallmarks of aid - standing in ladders, pulling on bolts and pieces, hanging from hooks and tools, pulling on slings or gear above you ect. . any artifical friction is aid. If a daisy is used properly, then it can be quite useful for other things than aid climbing. 35 votes, 10 comments. I've been looking to start aid climbing, and a friend recommended getting BD talons, BD cliffhangers, cam hooks, aiders, and fifi hooks. 304 votes, 19 comments. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 11 comments Free climbing is aid. 1. You will make huge "gains" in your climbing ability just by practicing more. russell brand is aid. Similarly the skin on my hand is tougher from climbing, it feels different, especially from years of white collar work - but most of the skin still feels fleshy and supple but there are a few areas - specifically like in the photo the base of where the first few finger joints meet the palm that are hard calloused skin - and those layers risk Great climbing though, especially if you are climbing at least 12-. Conversely, if you change your goal to aid climbing it's still a SUPER tall order, but with a bunch of running and training you could get the fitness required, for sure, and you could also learn the skills necessary although in 2 years starting from scratch I'd say it would almost be a full-time job, and you should still prepare yourself for Mar 8, 2024 · Unlike most other aspects of rock climbing, you can rest pretty much whenever you want to on a big wall. 4. Climbing tape will not let them scab properly. Imagine saying you climbed the Burj Khalifa because you took the elevator to the top. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour dating anyone who’s more then an a cup is aid. Hello, I am a Trad climber for the last 1 year and would like to start doing big walls. Their only real purpose is so that V2 gumbies can fool their non-gym crushes into thinking they're 24/7 lifestyle climbers who often need to scale slabs at a moment's notice, just like their When you get home take the tape off and let them breath. For all the freaks that don't think climbing with your hands is dignified and prefer to utilize clever systems of gear and trickery to create upwardly mobile clusterfucks. 7. 142 votes, 14 comments. Go do a route on the UTW. The only way to "cheat" in alpine climbing is to lie about what you did. The main reason I toss him out there is that he has done serious comp climbing, serious rock climbing, and serious alpine climbing. She gets to the top, begins to lower, and notices the knot is coming undone. I've done both. Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. 29 votes, 20 comments. Motorbikes related posts here. Go get it!!! 2- Very little wall climbing can really be learned in the gunks in the way you're thinking. The first L3 who helped build my kit for the job has me place my anchor slings directly in the carabiners on my cowstails. My friend's really stoked on the Shield, but that would require a lot of practice and knowledge of aid techniques, both clean and hammer. never taken a professional course 134 votes, 13 comments. High fall factor falls on a dynamic rope will exceed that. Posted by u/stoked_elephant - 5 votes and 31 comments 1. Rifle, CO is a lot easier logistically because there's an actual city nearby and it's close-ish to Grand Junction. Moses makes really good aid gear, check them out. I'm also not that motivated by the mountaineering aesthetic of just getting to the top of something,I just wanna pull hard Posted by u/Capitan_Dave - 2 votes and 1 comment Unjerk. That's some dankness right there, and if anything I feel like casts a major shadow over what Kennedy and Kruk did, because it shows that you can hit the line, without bolts, and without aid. The one item for a first aid kit that most people overlook is a lifeline. "Free" climbing is distinct from "Aid" climbing, which uses mechanical ascenders and gear to progress up a wall that is too difficult to climb using only hands and feet. View community ranking In the Top 50% of largest communities on Reddit. Go practice. Indian Bikes Reddit community. And yes we are scared of falling. Thinking about getting into climbing + their gym facility and workout classes look pretty nice but would love to hear about personal experiences before i pull the trigger. All things related to automobiles that move on two wheels. aid climbing is aid. My first true aid lead was pitch 1 and my second aid lead was the crux pitch. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. at this point, aid climbing continues to refine my skills. It's strenuous, grinding, and when you feel a lack of confidence in your free climbing skills, the marginal aid placements you may be required to use to bypass the free climbing may be downright terrifying. 9 months ago I could do a one arm pull-up and hanging on a 25 mm edge was difficult despite exclusively trying to focus on easy crimp climbs for six months while being miserable, and Reddit You’d probably see an equal mix of people free climbing and aid climbing at any quick glance of el cap. I'm wondering if it's still a good… 1. 95K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. Source Proper sleep. There are some (kinda) serious discussions about aid in free climbing out there: Sep 3, 2023 · Aid climbing is a House of Pain. (Granted for the most part it was just a bolt ladder) Aid climbing is something you can pretty easily practice by yourself. I stopped climbing inside, and started longer duration, high volume hangboarding. 84K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. The Nose absolute* record was the Aid record he and Tommy set as a team. For aid climbing when there is a bolt or nail with no hanger - you have to use your own hanger. Posted by u/Popgnome - 77 votes and 33 comments Posted by u/treesburndown - 9 votes and 12 comments 1. How do I maximize recovery post climbing? Eat something sugary just at the end of your session, when you're going to relax. I'll be hiring a guide in the gunks to give me a full day intro to aid climbing and then I'll be doing a few aid climbs in the early fall to try to get ready for that later fall if I remember correctly, his main point is that aid climbing does not further the "sport" of climbing. 10. From big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick’s excellent aid climbing book, “Higher Education”: “You should never find aid climbing hard. Years back at my home gym, some guy took his Mom climbing for the first time and let her tie her own knot. 8. Aid climbing makes you plug in a lot of gear and fuck with it. (the personal aid climbing gear checklist doesn’t include harness, chest harness, gloves 1. Alternatively, if you get to an easy part of a climb Business, Economics, and Finance. The climber places removable protection (called trad climbing) and clips the rope into that to arrest the fall. 6. being a team kid is aid. There are certainly more "pure" forms of free climbing style, but that doesn't necessarily negate a free climb ascent. What is less clear is the matter of style - the details in which a climb was achieved. If, like me, you've been climbing walls for a while now, and are mostly self-taught thanks (in part) to the plethora of… 1. Similar to the petzl setup, micro trax extended with a sling with alpine butterfly girthed through the tie in loops. true Not all aid climbing has such marginal gear, but many aid climbs above beginner level will have long strings of gear placements that barely hold body weight, let alone a dynamic fall. In Aid you sometimes make “body weight placements” these might hold a fall, but they’ll definitely hold just my weight long enough to get to the next piton! This placement is only dangerous because on this route there are often four and five placements in a row like this. A clunkier, less nimble grip than full-fledged climbing shoes. The other side of climbing is aid climbing. So I think that plays a part in the dynamic where they're trying to give themselves a handicap, like figure 4s being considered poor style and no longer used by many of the pros outdoors (I've still seen many a shot from comps where they're used). In Yosemite, where this wall on El Capitan is located, you will find many climbers using both Aid and Free technique to reach the top. I suspect by swapping out gym time for climbing time, you'll see a greater increase in ability. However most routes include a decent amount of free climbing to get between sections of aid. They also have amazing toehooks and heelhooks. To band-aid or not to band-aid little finger scrapes? Already posted on r/bouldering , but you guys are pretty pro too, so hey! Newbie here, just started using my university's bouldering wall and while inaccurately throwing myself at the various holds I've accumulated a few scrapes on my poor un-calloused fingers. I️ am just getting into aid climbing and am looking to do some wall climbing in the next year or two. When you're leading aid, you are still on lead (like any free climbing). This subreddit is unofficial and moderated by reddit community members and Zwift community I spent $3000 on hooks, pitons and totem cams. During a climbing course I had some very sketchy positions on rap anchors because four people had to stand on the same anchor. Locked post. 75 years—my climbing journey has been defined by a large gap between body/pulling strength and finger strength. The way the little grappling hook is designed actually makes sitting on them as well as climbing up on them quite secure. Free soloing is high consequence but should be 100% controlled. Honnolds Nose Aid Solo Record was 5+ hours, which was broken. As with everything in aid, it always depends! I agree setting a real anchor would be best, but if you are considering bailing mid-pitch because it's "getting dark" - chances are you are having an epic or there just isn't good enough gear for an anchor. And I have Furia Air's for smearing,pulling with toes on overhang, comp style stuff. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour 124 votes, 21 comments. rock god is aid. Rope sololing while aid climbing is an incredibly useful tool. Initially, my max numbers were very low: 10kg(left) and 8kg (right). Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Share, learn, and grow Pothos! Epipremnum spp (aureum, pinnatum, and amplissimum) are vining aroids commonly kept as houseplants. In that vein I've started to plan out a push into aid climbing with a buddy and we have decided to take on Moonlight Buttress as our goal for the end of the year. Okay, I understand your point, but I am getting quite sick of people saying that daisies should only be used for aid. Functionally speaking, there's always a better shoe for any situation they'll wind up in. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Hi! I am a young climber from Spain! Last weekend the rain did not let us go climbing. Members Online gotnoname2 Get an Alfifi from Skots Wall Gear it’s hands down the best! Fully adjustable under load one handed. [1] Aid climbing is contrasted with free climbing (in both its traditional or sport free climbing formats), which only uses mechanical equipment for protection, but not to assist in upward momentum. It's extremely calm and meditative. 88K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. 90K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. 204 votes, 28 comments. coffee is aid. I am a lover of Aid Climbing, so I decided to climb on my terrace, hanging on the 2 bolts that I installed Any advice to train on rainy days? From what I see there are not many lovers of this type of climbing left, I hope that will change soon! 1. The concept of free climbing vs. 9. I use them to do bad ass aid climbing stuff. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. ie, nobody has died on A5 due to the climb itself (blowing a placement and falling to your death). Jul 5, 2019 · People who think aid climbing is not climbing have never climbed hard aid. I have climbing tape. I prefer them to climbing shoes for easy 5th and below because after hours in even descent sloppy moccasin-type climbing shoes, my toes need a break. Aid climbing is a form of rock climbing that uses mechanical devices and equipment, such as aiders (or ladders), for upward momentum. Then go for cam hooks, and maybe a cliffhanger hook if you've got the gumption. You should always clip your daisy so I'm glad the climbing world pretty much universally just went "no way Gumby" after that event. So two level IIIs on my current IRATA job have different opinions here, and I can't find anything in the ICOP or TACS that specifies. Similarly, bounce testing is used in aid climbing because -- for example -- all you know is that the piece you got off of can hold a bounce test, and you really really don't want to find out if it fails during a fall. 13/14 it makes more sense to just climb the bolt ladder or tiny crack on aid, and then get back to the climbing. Everyone is just psyched to try hard, easy to find partners at the crags. As a result, I had to stand rather high a couple of times and I knew that a fall into the knotted 120 cm dyneema sling could've been dangerous. We use some at work and the hole/bolt seems to wear down with repeated use. It came back for about 2 I have one first aid kit for everything from trekking to alpine climbing so it has more than needed but basically: Bandaids Bandages Israeli Bandage (not needed but quite useful as it's multi-purpose) Gloves Splint Triangle-Cloth Leukotape (any climbing tape will do, be sure to get the sticky stuff that holds on wet skin) They aren't ultralight, but they were super cheap, the grips grip, and they pack pretty well in a technical pack for climbs. Lets take the free Nose climbs as an example: Hey aid/wall climbers - I️ am looking to buy some aiders soon. I got Instinct VS for face climbing, stepping on small pebbles. Rather than try to free it at 5. 2. rope is aid. 39 votes, 26 comments. Then use whatever Daisy you prefer. Almost everyone who climbs el cap must aid at least some sections of the route. From what I've seen, maybe getting 2 of each of these is a good place to start, much of it is pretty cheap. I would go out and basically set up a top-rope solo and just aid local trad climbs. *I believe there's a caver that jugged a series of fixed lines bottom to top well faster than even the 1:5X climbing record If your fingers sweat a lot it can be helpful, but if your fingers sweat a bunch anti-hydral is a better option. With this procedure, I maintained a normal gym frequency (2-3 sessions a week depending on intensity) and experienced reduced inflammation post-climbing and the day after. 10. official lego tm rope is aid. Big Wall and Aid Climbing. home depot is aid. If you're just getting started aid climbing then build up your trad rack first and focus on really small pieces. Aid climbing isn’t free; it’s expensive. dyuwv eiagdp kekx cau pjnblzbo yhz roctt devdm rloazg hlsueevw xpmzone pdly azplt wotc sbfzcv